It was with mixed feelings that I read the reports of the closing of Sam Seltzer’s Steak Houses in the Tampa Bay area. I had a generally good opinion of them but thought food and service in the Port Richey location was inconsistent. Then, reading that the restaurant was reopening under the name Harold Seltzer's Steak Houses at a select few locations, I was pleased to find that one was in the Gulf View Square Mall.

Still, it took a little while for me to find my way back. And for that, I am disappointed. I could have been enjoying their delicious steaks for several months.

The ambience at the Port Richey restaurant is unchanged. You enter a darkly paneled lobby where your party is greeted by smiling hostesses. You then wend your way through a warren of rooms designed to provide a cozy, comfortable dining venue. Our server arrived promptly with piping hot dinner rolls, ready for our drink orders, and continued serving us impeccably through the rest of the meal.

The menu boasts a full selection of steaks, ribs and prime rib entrées but also has an extensive offering of seafood. I started with the French onion soup, which was sweet, the cheese crust baked until just bubbling and golden brown.

Entrées are served with salad and a side dish. My tenderloin kebab was perfectly medium, my baked potato heaped with sour cream, and the salad was fresh with just the right amount of blue cheese dressing. Similarly, the bacon cheeseburger proved to be almost too much for my dining companion. The prime rib was tender and lean and the filet mignon melted on the tongue like butter. You can add a béarnaise or brandy peppercorn (they’ve never called it “au poivre” for some reason) sauce for an additional charge, but the meat stands very well on its own.

We ended our meal with delicious, rich coffee and desserts. My key lime pie was creamy and tart, the carrot cake was rich and spicy and the apple pie, served a la mode, was warmed and tasty.

Yes, Harold Seltzer has certainly redeemed himself with the re-opening of the family business. I think grandpa Sam would be proud.

Harold Seltzer’s Steak House
www.bestprimerib.net

9409 US Highway 19 N
Port Richey, FL 34668
(727) 807-7777

Mon – Thurs: 12 – 10 pm
Fri – Sat: 12 – 10:30 pm
Sun: 12 - 9 pm